St Maur October 2023 Newsletter
October 6, 2023 11:07 amWelcome to our St Maur newsletter for October 2023. In this newsletter:
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- October 2023 Update
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- My Italian Fact Finding Trip
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- Latest Shed No. 2 Release – 2022 Sangiovese (Certified Organic)
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- Current Cellar Door Hours
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October 2023 Vineyard and Winery Update
As I was out in the vineyard and getting the vines ready for the vintage ahead in the last weeks, I was thinking how great it was to feel the sun, and have it start to warm up the land as we head towards summer. Let’s hope this vintage is blessed with some better weather and events than those of the past years.
We’ve been busy getting the vines pruned and set for the vintage ahead. We prune the vines to make sure that they will grow the optimum amount of leaves and foliage, which in turn produces a sustainable quantity of high quality fruit. It’s the foundation on which the vintage will be built.
When the leaves get the right amount of sunshine and air flow, water and carbon dioxide combine to form sugars that make their way into the grapes. These sugars, amongst other things, will affect the quality of the vintage, hopefully making life simpler for our wine maker and resulting in great wines.
We will keep you posted as the vineyard starts to come to life, moving through its cycle of growth towards our 2024 harvest.
My Italian Fact Finding Trip
It had been over ten years since I was last in Italy, and this year I decided to take a quick tour – combining a little break from the Highlands, with some business to take some notes on their food and wine history and culture.
It was a brief trip, and I was away for just over three weeks. I toured a number of regions and cities visiting Rome, Polignano al Mare, Pescara, Bologna, Treviso, and Venice.
Emilia-Romagna is known as the “Food Valley” of Italy – a region unparalleled in its culinary and wine heritage. The region is renowned for its Parma ham, balsamic vinegar from Modena, Parmigiano Reggiano DOP (The King of Cheeses?) and Sangiovese wines.
I was fortunate to visit Moscattini a producer of Parmigiano Reggiano, located near Bologna. The company had over fifteen thousand wheels of Parmigiano at different stages of maturation. To qualify as Parmigiano Reggiano DOP (Designated Origin Protected) the cheese can only be made in Parma, Modena, Reggio-Emilia, and parts of Mantua and Bologna and from milk produced in this area.
I was in awe of the operation and fortunate to taste Parmigiano Reggiano at different stages of maturation – fresh (aged 18-24 months) is pale and ivory in colour with a mild, sweet and creamy taste. Medium (aged 2-3 years) becomes firmer and drier, with a nutty and fruitier taste. Both are suited to grating over pasta or in dishes to build flavour.
Aged Parmigiano Reggiano (3-4 years and beyond) becomes crumbly with concentrated nuttiness and a pronounced savoury taste. The cheese should be enjoyed on its own, or as part of a cheese plate, paired with honey and nuts or even a quality aged balsamic vinegar.
(Note: keep your Parmigiano rinds in a bag in the freezer. When making soup, add them to your pot to add another layer of flavour.)
I then visited Modena, which is renowned for its balsamic vinegar, aged in wooden barrels for years, creating a sweet, flavoursome vinegar that is coveted worldwide. I visited Acetaia Dei Bago (acetaia means vinegar cellar) to sample some of their vinegars and tasted Balsamic Vinegars that were aged for 12 to 35 years, and older.
There are two tiers of Balsamic Vinegars. Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena DOP (Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena) and Balsamic Vinegar of Modena IGP (Commercially Produced).
Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena (Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena) is made from local grapes and produced in Modena and the Reggio Emilia region, with production overseen by a certification body.
In Reggio Emilia the vinegars are classified as Affinato (fine) with a red cap, and aged for at least 12 years, Vecchio (old) with a silver cap and aged for at least 15 years, and Extra Vecchio (extra old) with a gold cap, aged for at least 25 years. (In Modena there’s just Afinato with a white cap and Extra Vecchio with a gold cap.)
Affinato has a complex and balanced flavour. It is thick, sweet, and viscous with notes of ripe fruits, molasses, and a gentle acidity. It’s often drizzled over desserts, fruits, or aged cheeses.
Extra Vecchio is the pinnacle of traditional balsamic vinegar. It has an even more intense, syrupy consistency and a rich, sweet, and tangy flavour. The taste is deeply layered, featuring notes of wood, dark berries, and a harmonious blend of sweet and sour. It’s typically savoured in small quantities as a condiment and has also been drunk at special occasions.
Balsamic Vinegar of Modena IGP is commercially produced and may use grapes from other regions, but must be produced in Modena. It can also contain wine vinegar, thickening agents and caramel to make it more like Balsamico Tradizionale.
These more affordable vinegars are classified as Young Balsamic, aged 3-5 years and widely available and less expensive than the traditional versions, or Aged Balsamic, aged 6-12 years, that’s much thicker and sweeter.
Traditional balsamic vinegars are considered gourmet delicacies, used sparingly on special occasions, while commercially produced ones are used as a daily staple. There’s no substitute for the traditional balsamic vinegars, with their limited supply of local grapes and at least 12 years of ageing, they command a premium in price, but you get what you pay for.
Puglia, is a sun-soaked region on Italy’s south east coast and is renowned for its olive oil. The region produces robust, fruity and peppery oils from trees that are a testament to the regions heritage.
While in Puglia I visited Masseria Brancatti, an olive grove with trees that were over three thousand years old, pre-dating the Roman Empire. It’s incredible to think that these gnarly, twisted trees have been producing olives and oil for longer than modern history has been recorded, reaching back to ancient times.
Among these ancient trees, the Ogliarola and Coratina olive varieties are most common, producing oils known for their exceptional depth and character.
It’s no wonder local cuisine is punctuated with olive oil – simple char grilled bruschetta, pasta dishes and seasonal vegetables are all dressed with local extra virgin olive oils.
I was fortunate enough to enjoy many great meals in Puglia, with the highlights those that had spectacular vistas overlooking the sea, and made with the freshest and sweetest seafood, straight from the Adriatic. The Fritto Misto stands out as one of my favourite dishes and the local Salento wine complemented the seafood perfectly.
What struck me as I visited all the different producers, cafes, salumeria, trattoria, stores and restaurants, was how simple, wholesome food and wines were such a part of their everyday life. It has made me hungry for more, and I hope that I can return to Italy again, a little sooner in the future.
Our Italian heritage and sensibility is something that we’ve always been proud of and that has set us apart here at St Maur. My recent trip to Italy has reminded me of how important it is to do the simple things well, how keeping things uncomplicated can yield more, and why keeping and building enduring traditions are important.
Latest Shed No. 2 Release
St Maur Shed No.2 2022 Sangiovese (Certified Organic)
With my Italian fact finding trip front of mind, did you know that St Maur recently secured a limited release of certified organic 2022 Sangiovese from the Goulburn Valley in Victoria? It’s my favourite drop at the moment and drinking spectacularly well. It’s a medium style with great fruit – cherry, rhubarb and savoury notes. Drinking very well now (can be served lightly chilled), or cellar to develop character.
$39 per Bottle $234 per half case (6)
If you would like to order any wines, you can visit our cellar door or order by phone on (02) 4883 4401, by email info@stmaurwines.com.au or online and we will arrange delivery for members.
Current Cellar Door Hours
Following on from my break, we’ve settled into new Cellar Door hours at St Maur – we’re open Friday, Saturday, Sunday, and Monday from 10:30 am to 4:30 pm.
It’s always good if you can let us know that you are coming in so we can make sure you have the best experience. Give us a call or drop us an email to make a booking. Please note that tastings for groups of six or more are by appointment only and require you to book ahead with confirmation from St Maur.
Contact us by email info@stmaurwines.com.au or call (02) 4883 4401.
We hope to see our members soon.
With the new vintage releases, we have a limited number of cases of our Lot 41 2021 Pinot Gris, Lot 41 2021 Chardonnay and Lot 41 2023 Pinot Noir Rose left in stock. I know members are very fond of the Rose so I suggest that you get in early and purchase a half case to avoid the disappointment of missing out.
We’re also looking for full time and part time staff for our cellar door. If you know of people who would be interested they can visit https://www.stmaurwines.com.au/careers/
Its been challenging finding competent staff and we are hopeful that we can resume normal hours soon.
I will keep you posted on how our crop is developing in the months ahead and if we resume more regular Cellar door opening hours, I will let our members know.
Until then, be well.
With kind regards,
Marco
This post was written by John Giro